‘Sun-soaked, wave-lapped and never crowded’: Sicily’s idyllic unspoilt beaches

A world away from Italy’s crowded beach resorts, the island’s south-west offers remote golden sands plus villages, vineyards and great restaurants

It felt like a classic British beach outing, but with more reliable weather. Toting umbrella, towels, sun cream, water and a cool-box picnic, my husband, son and I turned our backs on the marina in Porto Palo, near Menfi in south-west Sicily, and walked west. About 10 minutes on a narrow signposted coastal path brought us to Le Solette, a half-mile curving golden beach between rocky outcrops and backed by low hills. It’s a gorgeous spot, with soft sand and clear water in hues from turquoise to indigo – but the most remarkable thing about it is not what’s there, but what’s not.

Seaside resorts in north and central Italy are a strange phenomenon: the sand is usually almost invisible beneath pairs of sunbeds and matching umbrellas. OK, there is the convenience of loos and showers, but at what cost? I’ve been to resorts in Liguria, in north-west Italy, where from Easter to September a walk along the front affords views not of the sea but of the walls and changing cabins of an unbroken row of beach stabilimenti.

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